Portugal in the Slow Lane

By Amanda Sauer

When you start thinking about a journey through Portugal, the main cities like Lisbon and Porto can be a logistical necessity. They are incredibly vibrant, active, and dense with history, and you absolutely should see them. But if your entire itinerary remains at that high-octane city pace, you miss the true rhythm of Portuguese life and why I personally love it. Many of you may have heard me say I want to retire here.

Back in 2017, my husband Jeff and I lived in Porto for three months, and we've made it a point to come back every couple of years. This past spring, we returned for Easter to share the country with our family. My parents were returning to see it anew, our son Jack was finally getting more than just a single day's layover in Lisbon, and my brother and sister-in-law tagged along for the first few days before heading off to Spain for their anniversary.

When people come to me to plan a first trip to Portugal, we naturally focus on the highlights: Lisbon, Porto, and the Algarve. And honestly, we should! They are iconic, interesting places that absolutely deserve a spot on your itinerary. But what I’ve discovered over the years is that the real magic happens when you look at how much time you have to travel. An 8-day trip is a fast-paced overview, but expanding to a 10 to 14-day trip gives you the breathing room to enjoy those famous highlights and step outside the busy centers to see how Portuguese life actually moves.

The Coastal Balance

When we visit the Lisbon area, especially with a multi-generational family in tow, we love to balance the energy of the city by basing ourselves 30 to 45 minutes down the coast in Cascais or Estoril.

It completely changes the energy of the trip. You wake up, walk down the promenade for a morning café or cafézinho, and you’re surrounded by a quieter pace on the water front. I feel like I am on a vacation, not a trip. You still have walkability, and when you want an action packed day of sightseeing in Lisbon or a trip up to the iconic palaces of Sintra (a great town to wander in the evening once the day trip crowds have left), you just jump on the train or take a quick drive.

Take it from a six year old, “Two nights is too short of a stay here.”

If you want to experience the Atlantic coast like a local, look just beyond the typical stops. While Nazaré is iconic for its monstrous spectator waves, the true hub for active surf culture is Ericeira. Right before you even get into the town, the coast is lined with these great little beach coves. My new favorite is Foz do Lizandro. In the off-season, it’s a quiet, empty cove where you can just sit at a beach club and watch the waves crash; in the summer, it turns into a lively, energetic beach spot. It’s the perfect place to grab a gelato and just enjoy the water.

Going South: Comporta and the Alentejo

If you venture south of Lisbon, you’ll hit Comporta. It’s a local favorite, definitely getting more popular with international travelers lately, but it remains a beautiful, relaxed alternative to the resort crowds further south, surrounded by wild pine forests and rice fields. It is also great if you do have a short trip and want some quick beach time.

But if you have the time to keep driving south into the Alentejo coastline, places like Vila Nova de Milfontes or Porto Covo are spectacular. The scenery shifts into massive, wind-swept sandstone cliffs, empty beaches, and incredible little seafood restaurants tucked into quiet fishing villages. It’s entirely unhurried.

History and Layers Inland

When you have the time to venture inland, the shift between regions is fascinating. If you drive through the golden, rolling hills of the Alentejo, you’ll notice an Arabic and North African influence in the whitewashed architecture of towns like Mértola or Marvão, the geometric mosaics, and the regional food. On one trip, we even stumbled into an unexpected layer of history; we happened to stay at the same hotel as an archaeologist from Rome, who ended up joining our group to explore. He was excited to see some incredible local Roman ruins at the beginning stages of excavation. There were no timed entries and no lines, just us exploring an incredible historical site because we took the road less traveled.

Heading north, it’s a completely different history. Most people have heard of the historic university town, Coimbra, but right near it are the Schist Villages (Aldeias do Xisto). These are ancient mountain hamlets built entirely out of dark schist stone. Walking through them feels like a Time Machine. I am completely infatuated with this area, and it is lovely for nature and hiking.

Even further north past Porto, places like Guimarães (the birthplace of Portugal) and Braga with the massive, winding stone steps of the Bom Jesus do Monte sanctuary showcase the deeply rooted history of the north. Not to mention the Vinho Verde wine, so many more options than what we see here in the US.

I also love the little village of Amarante as you head into the Douro Valley. Much like our Lisbon strategy, you can easily stay outside Porto and just do day trips into the city. The Douro Valley is stunning with the wine terraces lining the river banks. You don’t necessarily have to stay at the Six Senses (though it's one of my favorite hotels)—the boutique little quintas scattered through the valley are lovely, quaint, and incredibly peaceful.

Even the food tells a story. Throughout the country, there’s a quiet Jewish history woven into the culinary traditions. During the Inquisition, the Jewish community created the alheira sausage—made with poultry and bread instead of pork—so they could appear to be blending in with local customs while secretly protecting themselves from scrutiny.

Rustic, But Highly Refined

Stepping into the countryside doesn't mean sacrificing comfort. The Alentejo has a very rustic, authentic feel with all its cork trees and olive groves, and the luxury options there are comfortable and understated. You do not come here to be seen; you come slow down.

For a truly seamless journey, there are private wine quintas in the region with their own landing strips. You can fly a private plane straight from Lisbon, land directly at the vineyard for a weekend of world-class wine and dining, and then fly directly out to Sevilla, Spain, to continue your trip (which is exactly what my brother and sister-in-law did for their anniversary kickoff).

The culinary scene spans the entire spectrum. You can have a fantastic, rustic meal at a tiny, local co-op farm, or you can book a table back in Lisbon at Chef José Avillez’s Belcanto, which is consistently ranked on the world’s top 50 restaurants list.

The Art of the Take-Home

I haven’t even touched on the incredible local artisans yet. The craftsmanship here is beautiful, everything from handmade leather goods and pottery to traditional tile painting (I use mine at home as trivets and coasters). My absolute favorite soap is from Portugal. And the woven blankets? They are stunning. I would have bought ten of them if I didn't know they would immediately be confiscated at home to build forts by my six-year-old.

Core Memories

When our family talks about this trip, nobody really brings up the famous landmarks. We talk about the hyper-specific, unique experiences we had time to enjoy because we built space into our schedule. A few favorite memories from our travels:

• Vinho Verde Festival in Porto: Our first day in Porto, we just went out for a walk with no plan, no map—just instinct and jet lag. We ended up walking right into a Vinho Verde festival, where we tasted wines, watched cooking demonstrations, and hung out with the locals. One of the presenters was kind enough to translate the demonstration for us, and we actually ended up meeting the chef, who invited us to his restaurant back in Lisbon.

• The Tide Race: Taking a dinghy out to a local oyster farm, jumping out into knee-deep water, popping open a bottle of local wine, and pulling a bag of fresh oysters straight out of the water to eat right there on the sand before the tide came back in. It felt very Portuguese (even though they mostly export oysters)—understated, authentic, and raw (pun intended).

• Foraging for Paint: Doing a watercolor class with my mom where we went out into the fields to forage for grasses, leaves, and petals, learning the historical ways people used to crush and mix natural materials to create different paint pigments.

• Easter on the Farm: Visiting a working farm, Jack spent the afternoon touring the farm, meeting the animals, and collecting eggs straight from the chickens, which we later dyed together for Easter. Of course, to keep things balanced, the very next day featured a highly competitive round of paintball for the adult siblings.

Designing Your Experience

I am sure you have heard all of us say, don’t take your friend’s trip. There is no single "right" way to see Portugal. The best itinerary isn't one pulled from a viral video or a must see checklist. It should be a chapter in your Wanderlist; one that is tailored specifically to your travel style, your timeline, and the experiences you want.

If you have a week, let's maximize the spectacular highlights of Lisbon and take a day or two to relax. But if you can stretch it to two weeks, let's weave in the North, the surf coves, the wine estates, and those quiet countryside moments that give a trip a Portuguese pace. Have 3 or more weeks? Let's consider the islands or Spain or even Morocco.

Have you created your Wanderlist? Let’s start designing the chapter on Portugal.

Here’s to fewer checklists and more core memories!

- Amanda

P.S. If your interest leans toward dramatic volcanic landscapes and lush green craters, the Azores islands are a quick flight from the mainland. Be sure to check out my colleague Cathy's full write-up on her recent trip out there!